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Post by jimwill52 on Nov 24, 2010 11:46:05 GMT -5
I constructed a vacuum table for my CNC out of solid surface and I love it! I designed it using V-Carve and machined it on my router using two pieces of 0.50 Corian that I picked up from old stock at my local 'top shop.' Using V-Carve, I created a grid of 0.125 holes and a series of corresponding flutes (0.375 round bit cut 0.125 deep) on the underside of the top with matching flutes on the bottom slab. I cut out the final dimensions with a hand-held router. Using the hand-held router I took 0.125 off of the surface around the work area of my CNC so I can mill the work area to keep it flat. Before installing I flipped the table over and installed two threaded inserts on each side to hold an adjustable fence. Using a Craftsman shop vac, it holds great! This was my first adventure with solid surface and it was very easy to work with. Attachments:
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Post by mattgatten on Dec 23, 2010 10:43:46 GMT -5
Can we see a picture with the adjustable fence installed? I really like this. How does it perform with thin 2D parts where you have lots of holes?
Great work!
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Post by georgemyers on Dec 23, 2010 11:36:04 GMT -5
If you cut a lot (or any) corian be sure to used a vac system to pick up the dust. I use to cut a lot of corian doing lithopanes and ended up with a major bearing problem in my v-wheels.
At the time I was not using any type of system to pick up the dust.
Your top came out very nice, I was thinking of trying something like that using cast acrylic for my HS1
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Post by jimwill52 on Dec 23, 2010 17:37:51 GMT -5
Here's a photo... I'll post another one too. I'm still working on my dust collection system and I haven't used the vacuum table enough to tell you how it works. I will out of the country for a couple of weeks then I'll be working in the full time for a while. Attachments:
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Post by jimwill52 on Dec 23, 2010 17:38:50 GMT -5
here's another photo. Attachments:
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Post by gvjeeper on Apr 19, 2011 20:30:28 GMT -5
Hi Jim,
I'm still working on cutting my first piece and was looking for hold-down examples. Now I remember you telling me about your vac table. It looks great!! Let me know how it works. And thanks for all of your other help!!!
CJ
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Post by jimwill52 on Apr 20, 2011 9:27:52 GMT -5
It works great! Good luck on that first piece... use some little brads in places that won't be routed and tack it to your table. You have to get your feet wet sooner or later.
Jim
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Post by gvjeeper on May 30, 2011 14:17:36 GMT -5
Hi Jim,
I'm now planning my vac table but have a question. This may be a stupid question but.... my concern is cutting pieces all the way through. Doesn't that leave grooves, the outline, etc. in the top of the Corian? I have some guitar frames to cut out and they are made of 1/4" ply so lift easily. The vac table would be great for this job. btw, I love your table!!
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Post by jimwill52 on May 31, 2011 21:10:27 GMT -5
I developed a 'jig' system for securing material while routing. I make the jigs out of .25 mdf and if I need to profile the piece I rout a .0625 pocket to accept the 'blank' and drill holes to match the pattern in my vacuum table. I position the blanks using a square I made from .75 baltic birch plywood. This holds it down while I rout the profile (and other toolpaths on the face) then I lay a second jig on top of the first that is cut out to fit pretty snuggly to the profiled blank. I use little shims to avoid any slop then I can rout the back as needed or additional work on the front. This jig setup is to rout eight custom picture frames. It takes a while to tweak the toolpaths so you don't overpower the vacuum... but it works like a champ! Attachments:
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Post by gvjeeper on Jun 6, 2011 23:09:08 GMT -5
So, the piece that you drill the holes in is like a backer/salvage board?
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Post by stratman on Nov 2, 2011 15:47:11 GMT -5
Nice job. Also like your dust collector shoe. Any closeup, files on how you made it. Thanks
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