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Post by gvjeeper on Jan 7, 2012 2:02:21 GMT -5
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Post by jimwill52 on Jan 7, 2012 9:05:52 GMT -5
Very nice work!
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Post by stratman on Jan 20, 2012 22:22:04 GMT -5
wow those are nice
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Post by gvjeeper on Jan 23, 2012 3:53:47 GMT -5
Thanks so much.
I have to give my daughter and her girlfriend credit for the fancy paint job on the butterflys. We made those for her to give to two little twin girls of her best friend.
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Post by eddiem on Feb 11, 2012 19:06:02 GMT -5
Looks very nice i have a few ?s if you have the time.
First how are you adding the color to them like the gradient yellow to orange and yellow to green?
On the last one how did you get that wood shape design is that a stock design in VCarve?
I have a WD-1 on order and will be cutting some cedar signs to and would like to have that style of wood shape and the log wood black painted end and green trees like on the last one. Is that all included in VCarve?
How big are the signs? and how long did it take to rout them out?
Was this all with one bit or did you need to change bits?
And last ? was this using the WD-1 or the smaller unit.
Thanks sorry for so many ?s i will be just starting out with this CNC for the first time.
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Post by gvjeeper on Mar 5, 2012 20:44:29 GMT -5
Sorry eddim but I just now read your post......
We cut them on a WD-1.
Except for cutting the outside edge, it was all cut with a V-bit. The piece was cut out of the blank (the edges) with an end mill.
The board was 12 x 24 (cedar) but the final piece was about 9 x 12. It was cut the long way on the bed (portrait) as it was too long to cut it landscape.
I'm not sure what you mean by "included in VCarve Pro" - The entire project was drawn in VCP then sent to Mach3 to be cut.
The gradient colors were hand painted by my daughter. Start with one color then slowly add the other color as you paint. To do the solid colors, first cover the parts you don't want to paint, then use spray ink (Marsh) or spray paint to paint in the carved areas. After the paint completely dries, sand the entire surface to remove the paint from the surface. Hope that makes sense.
Let me know if you need any more help.
~ Christy
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Post by eddiem on Mar 24, 2012 18:00:24 GMT -5
Hi thanks
How long did it take to cut out everything?
Still do not have my WD-1 it should be here soon.
I have a work area ready for it now.
Also looking to build a large box with clear plexiglass or something to enclose it all in to stop any dust from flying around in the room as i have a lot of other things in the room i do not want covered with wood dust.
So to cut out the edge design of the sign i will need to change to an end mill for that.
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Post by perryjackson on Mar 24, 2012 21:44:32 GMT -5
Here's a picture of my enclosure: all made of 80/20 aluminum "quick frame" and plexiglass. Only the two visible sides are 1/4" plexiglass, the 3 other sides are twin-walled polycarbonate. The base includes baffled air intakes, providing a cooling airflow for the router pulled in by the dust collector. A bit pricey, but it keeps all the dust inside as well as lots of the noise. It also gives a feeling of safety while watching a carbide cutter spin at high speed. Attachments:
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Post by jimwill52 on Mar 24, 2012 22:33:34 GMT -5
Nice work! It looks like it would do the job. Just make sure the dust shoe is pulling the dust and chips out... chips in the v-wheels or the ball-screws can cause problems in a hurry.
Welcome to the club!
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Post by eddiem on Mar 25, 2012 0:05:39 GMT -5
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Post by jimwill52 on Mar 25, 2012 8:23:36 GMT -5
If you are new to the CNC world and the WD-1 I would suggest that you wait until you have been successfully cutting for awhile before you enclose your machine. There is so much to learn and I have made several changes to the cabinet I have the WD-1 sitting on and other modifications that I wish I had done. If you set your dust-foot up to get rid of dust and chips it won't make too big of a mess. I have made some firewood several times when a chip managed to get under a v-wheel or, worse yet, in the 'z' ballscrew. The machine binds and it looses it's place and the piece you are cutting can be ruined. I don't have mine enclosed but I would think it would magnify the chip problem by holding everything in. At the very least, your enclosure should allow you to open at least one side and the front and back so when you get into a situation where you can't control the chips (it happens a lot) you can switch to a 'plan b.' I sometimes stand in front with a shop-vac nozzle in hand and pick up chips as it is cutting.
Your table needs to be very solid! I built a heavy duty cabinet that won't flex in any direction. If you have something that can flex it can cause your 'z' axis to vary (I've been there.)
There hasn't been a lot of action on this forum lately but there are some really good resources lurking out on it. Post if you have any problems and someone will have an answer for you.
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Post by romaxxcnc on Mar 26, 2012 11:13:37 GMT -5
Perry Jackson, That is a nice looking enclosure.
We have many of our customers that put the machine in an enclosure. If the dust the cutter creates is not controlled, it will get in to the mechanisms of the machine and lock it up, this is no different than any woodworking machine or tool. The perfect dust collecting attachment does not exist. Due to the varied nature of the work being performed, no one design is perfect for everything. The dust collector we sell does a reasonably good job for flat planar surfaces. 3D work such as solid models, will require different dust collection strategies and design. And sometimes it's simply necessary to follow the cutter with a vacuum hose in close proximity of the cutter.
-Ron
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Post by eddiem on Mar 26, 2012 14:50:02 GMT -5
I do need to keep the wood dust in check as i have other things in the room i do not want to get dust on.
Was thinking of having 3 sides that are able to open.
I will start a new post with some more ?s so it is not part of this chat on signs.
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Post by jkmccutchen on Mar 27, 2012 11:01:35 GMT -5
I have been looking for the log template and cant find it, where can i find it?
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Post by gvjeeper on Apr 12, 2012 12:29:01 GMT -5
Again, sorry I didn't see your post earlier. I'd say the signs take about an hour. I've been tweaking them as I'm still a novice at all of this. I am now cutting .125 deep instead of .25 for a couple of reasons: time, easier to spray paint when not so deep. Just have to be careful when you sand off all the excess paint that you don't over-do it and sand too deep. Also, I don't do any "prep" on the top of the board before cutting since I'm going to have to sand it anyhow to remove the excess paint.
Hope that helps.
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